San Blas Adventure with Cissy and Jack – April 22-30th

Kuna Woman

With the  Aruba-Cartagena crew arriving in Porto Bello, and Cissy and I anxiously waiting for them. (we had arrived via Butterfly taxi service (Judy) from Panama), we quickly swapped stories.  Hanna, and Scott jumped the taxi with Judy heading back to panama to make their connection with their flight home from Panama.  Cissy, Jack, Ken and spent the few afternoon hours a few provisions, as much ice as we could and dinghy’d luggage to the boat to prepare for a early AM departure from Porto Bello to San Blas Islands.

Buying from Kuna

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We left at 10AM to sail/motor 8 hours to the San Blas Islands heading to Chichima anchorage along the way.    Our days of sailing went fast and we loved the San Blas Islands and Kuna Indians. Each day we got in the water and did a bit of snorkeling.  Cissy and I did a bit of trading (purchasing) on one of the islands with a lovely Kuna momma.  She was very clear on how she wanted her picture with us taken.  They experience only cruiser tourists and work hard to get you to select something they have made.  We came home with bracelets and embroidered cloth called Molas.

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Kuna huts

Kuna Village on Holandes Caye (Island)

San Blas Crew

San Blas crew on the sand beach of Coral Lodge.  www.corallodge.com

Beautiful huts over water

On our way back to Portobella, we sailed to Bahia Escribanos, a large bay with narrow entrance, and arriving and setting anchor around 2PM .  We hailed Coral Lodge and Jake answered.  Paul the “manager” was gone, but we could have ice delivered in one hour to the boat.  We asked for fish to cook and Paul arrived with 4 small snapper and ice to cool our drinks for the afternoon.  Paul, a great character, spilled more rum and coke in one short afternoon while on our boat than anyone could in a year!  After countless stories, he had to leave to get back to the lodge before dark.  Saturday, as pre-arranged, we were picked up at 10AM by the lodge boat, taken to the lodge and checked into our 2 cabana’s and then we were sitting down for lunch. We stayed at the Coral lodge for 2 nights.   Our rooms were out over the water on a long dock.  It was very elegant for such a remote place and they took great care of us.   Jack and I took time on Sunday for a deepsea fishing trip with our guide.  Jack took pictures as I caught several fish.  The largest being a Red Snapper!  Coral Lodge kept that fish, but we took the smaller mackerel that I caught.

my first fish ate by a fish

My Red Snapper

With the help of the lodge, we secured more beer, ice, diesel and even wine before we headed back to Portobella where we would do yet another crew change.  This would be the last crew change of the season.

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Aruba, Columbia and Portobello Panama – April 8-23rd

Crew pic

Plan was to have a four man crew of Jack, Matt, Scotty and Ken sail from Aruba around the end of Gulf of Venezuela to Santa Marta and then Cartagena, Columbia.  The sailing is especially difficult  from the end of Venezuela across the mouth of the Baranquilla River – big waves caused by the river and constant winds from the East.  Jack’s strategy was to add crew – Hanna from Wauwatosa came to the Aruba party to meet her boyfriend Scotty, the Grateful Red foredeck…only her second time outside the US.  By party end Hanna was calling home her flight back was now from Panama City and we had a crew of five!

 

Sail to Santa Marta was as advertised, lots of waves and wind…the banging around resulted in a leak in the diesel tank.  Within an hour, the boat reeked of diesel.  thirty gallons of diesel was pumped out through bilge and the retrofit was soon diesel in a five gallon bucket with the line from the tank stuck in the bucket!   Yes, it worked!

 

Sailing 495

Limped into Santa Marta, Columbia, stinky with the boat all shook up.  We hired Dino as our agent for the “paperwork”.  Dino’s first report was the local Gendarme did not like our Venezuelan paperwork and if the local military felt that an inspection was necessary, the Grateful Red could be spending a few weeks in Santa Marta marina – not a good prospect.  We informed the local Gendarme in writing that the reason our Venezuela paperwork was incomplete was the untimely demise of Presidente Hugo Chavez – who died while we were in Venezuela.   Meawhile, Dino submitted our paperwork to the harbor master on Saturday late after the military had left for the weekend.  A brilliant plan – as darkness set in the Grateful Red and paperwork were out to sea on the way to Cartagena.

 

Sailing 617

Jack called the Houston Yacht Club and had HYC fax a letter of introduction to the upscale Club de Pesca, a private Cartagena Yacht club.  Had to wear collared shirts to the club bar and at night the docks were patrolled by men with machine guns.  Not sure who and where were the bad guys.  With help of the club, we pulled ou the diesel tank.   matt and tank took a road trip to the local aluminum welding shop…a few days later, repaired tank was back in the boat and we were off to the San Blas Islands in Panama.

Sailing 526

A mostly motoring overnight with our newly repaired tank, we arrived in Panama on sunday looking to do our Panama paperwork.  The Panama system was much refined once we found the “official” and agreed to pay the “Sunday bonus”.  Paperwork and passports stamped were done…Pronto!.   Spent a couple days in the San Blas Kuna Indian Islands then continued our way to Portobella for a crew change.

arriving in Porto Bello

Arriving and walking to Capt Jacks Bar!

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Ken’s office for a day!

Grateful Red Party 2013 in Aruba

A motor up the Orinoco River in Venezuela to the deep jungle and pink dolphins, the untimely demise of Hugo Chavez while the Grateful Red was cruising the terrific Venezuelan Islands (unbelievably when Hugo died the country showed their respect by going dry…no alcohol for two weeks!) the Grateful Red was ready to party and Aruba was the location.  White sand at Nikki Beach, a spontaneous Moonhouse set up in front of the mega hotels, and a new Moonhouse rhythm section of Dave and Evan made for a party!IMG_0095

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Add-ons to the band

Dancing

Dinner at Pincho's

 

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Sunset at Nikki Beach