Blog post – Page 5 – Grateful Red

Bonaire to Aruba with Beth and Kat, March 19th – 21st.

March 21, 2013/0 Comments/in Blog post/by Kristine

We got up early on Saturday, March 16^th to sail to Bonaire for the next crew change. Bob will fly home from Bonair and we will pick up Beth and Kat Donnelly. As we were approached the entrance of Harbor Village marina, Bonair harbor, I called the marina only to find they were closing in 5 minutes. Seeing our boat approach, they helped tie us up at their Quay and said we could do our paperwork on Monday. We pleaded for Electric and Water hookup and the marina office staff rebooted his computer and set us up with internet. What a relief. We spent some time cleaning the boat, taking trash out, filling our tank, and setting up the dinghy to go across the marina bay to the one of two open restaurants. Kat and Beth made contact with us but would meet up with us later.

Sunday, March 17^th, I did boat laundry (hot water on our boat due to our electric hookup) and had a lovely dinner in the evening at the Dockside Restaurant where Beth and Kat met up with us.

Monday, the crew went to see the Flamingos and the Salt Mines while I stayed behind. Scott and I took a taxi to drop off the dinghy motor for some minor repair (it leaks gas terribly) and then I got dropped off at a local large wonderful Super-Market. We had dinner at “It Rains Fishes” near Beth and Kat’s hotel. Bob will stay at their hotel using their room, and they will move to the boat for our early departure to Curacao in the morning.

Tuesday, March 19, we planned our sail to Curacao of 35km. Looking at a 6 hour sail, we made peanut butter sandwiches to eat early in the day during the sail. We had a easy departure from our dockside tie-up and were off around 9AM. The day was full sun and everyone lathered up with sunscreen and the day passed easily.

We arrived at the south end of Curacao and decided to check out Spanish Waters to see if we could find a small marina to stay for the night. One of the cruisers we met in the Aves had recommended this area to us. We did not have any chart books to go by so this seemed to be a good option. We spent about 2 hours motoring all through this area of small inlets and bays inside of Spanish waters. Most proved to be anchorages and small resorts in very shallow water. There were several areas with water sports happening and we were getting a bit discouraged at our options for anchorage or marina. As it happens when we first entered the channel into Spanish waters we had passed Sera Boca, a very upscale hotel/resort and Marina that had several spots for mega yachts in front of the beach side. In Ken’s wonderful fashion, he suggested we just “tie-up” there and see what would happen. I sometimes just have to just close my eyes and go along with his ideas for my own sake. After tying up, we looked for the Harbor master and had the dive shop that was located on the same dock give him a call. After a bit of negotiations we decided that the cost of the slip wasn’t much different than a very nice meal out with some good wine so why not go for it.

Staying there would be a treat because we had access to the resort restaurants, bars, market, and best of all the pool! It was a great 2 night stay before we had to leave for our last stop, Aruba. Kat and Beth were convinced they would bring their family back the Serv Boca Resort and marina

Thursday, March 21^st, at 4AM, we left our slip and motored out the channel to make our way to Aruba. The early morning motor kept us on our toes as we went alongside of Curacoa where many ships were entering the area. Just outside of the shores of Aruba, I caught another Mackerel to the delight of the crew. I think they liked my use of the silver bat to “numb” the fish when it was inside the boat. Nothing worse than a flopping fish. Such a mess!

About 30 minutes outside of the Renaissance Marina where we planned to keep the boat, I hailed them and we were instructed that we would not be able to approach until we “checked in” at a dreadful commercial port filled with large, ugly looking fishing and commercial boats. We turned around to get to this Port to check in. By far the worse Port Authority we had ever experienced. We tied up to a concrete wall with large tractor tires as fenders. Ken and I walked through a sand and gravel yard to look for the customs and immigration offices. Found them, checked in, and hurried back to the boat to get to the marina just short of their closing time. (sounds familiar doesn’t it!)

X.J and Sander greeted us, guided us to the slip they wanted us to tie-up to and waited to close in order to give us our wifi, shower cards and general information for the marina. Beth and Kat rented a room at the Renaissance Resort Hotel right next to the marina and then came back to help clean and scrub the boat. Now it was time for the swimup bar at the pool!

The next few days, we would make contact with Jorge at Nikki Beach, Z from Talk of the Town Hotel, and the manager of Pinchos, all locations for our upcoming annual party. Scott was given a list of projects to do while we head back to Wisconsin for Easter. He will be on the boat in Aruba for 8 days with plenty to do, and plenty of time to relax.

Margarita, Isla Tortuga, Cayo Herrandura, Las Roches Islands, and the Aves with Bob

March 5, 2013/0 Comments/in Blog post/by Kristine

LOBSTER! Again!!!

We sailed our 4 hours on, 4 hours off shifts through the night and arrived at Isla Tortuga about 1PM in the next afternoon. 17 hour sail! Bob’s first sail without being able to see land. Isla Tortuga is barren and flat and we named it La Blanquilla #2! Not much there but a few fishing boats and lovely sandy beach.

We found fisherman in our bay at Isla Tortuga and arranged for 2 lobsters, no diesel.

They cannot sell any. Ken and Bob took the dinghy later to pick up the lobster and ran out of gas on the way back. First lesson in using the oars! These lobsters have to be some of the biggest I have ever seen and Scott’s second time eating lobster. This time with butter which he agreed was the way to go! His plate was clean so we think he likes it.

Thursday, March 7^th, woke up to a perfect day with light breezes. Spent most of the morning catching up on journal work, and then some boat cleaning and derusting. For lunch, we then motored to one of the small Islands about one hour away, Cayo Herradura. There was a small fishing camp on the island and a very lovely red and white lighthouse. Original plan is to leave for Las Roches around 3 or 4Pm. Our next leg will be about 85 miles at least. We changed plans and decided to stay overnight in Cayo Herradura. Bob and Scott decided to motor in the dinghy over to one of the fishing boats to see about some fish and diesel. This time they took 2 empty water bottles (large2 gals). They bartered using a liter of Bacardi and returned to our boat will a lovely filleted Tuna, and the 2 bottles filled with diesel.

I made lobster quesadillas for a late lunch saving the Tuna for another meal. About one hour after the boys returned we noticed someone snorkeling over to our boat. It was one of the fishermen , Jesus, and he was looking for a bottle of Coke from us. We only had one 1.5 liter of Pepsi and we agreed to split it with them. I poured their half in one of my empty Pepsi bottles and then Scott gave the Jesus a ride back to their fishing boat. (He did get a bit of raze from his fellow fisherman for not swimming back to the boat). When Scott returned he brought with him some “fish” ice for our beer cooler, this is a good thing. They promised “drink” ice in the morning. (It was questionable looking when we got it…)

Friday, before we left for Las Roches in the afternoon, we went to shore and did some snorkeling and walking around. The island is mostly sand and grass and very flat. We pulled anchor at 3PM and headed NW to Los Roches, Venezuela. (According to Doyle book, “14-25 miles of protected, Reef Studded water dotted with islands”…)

Anchorage at Cayo Herrandura

First stop in los Roches was Sarqui, an Island filled with mangroves and sand. We were able to go into a very shallow holding that was surrounded by mangroves and coves. This island boast 80 species of birds in the area. We didn’t see more than 3-5 different birds! Ken and I took the dinghy into the mangroves to look around. It was shallow and beautiful, saw barracuda and pelicans and very large orange starfish. We ate the tuna, seared with Soy Sauce for dinner. Yum!

Sunday, March 10^th, we left anchor around 10AM after pancakes and bacon for breakfast. We arrived in La Grand one hour later. (Los Roques – el Gran Roque). We dropped anchor in their small anchorage facing the town and were soon approached by the local Venezuelan Coast Guard. Renaldo was the main man and spoke very good English. El Gran Roque and all of the Los Roques are setup as a National Park. You are limited to 15 day stay and must pay per person/per day to stay. You are also accessed by the size of your boat. We paid total $300 USD to stay (5 days). Part of this fee goes to garbage collection. Renaldo, the coast Guardia who boarded our boat was extremely friendly and between Scott and Ken’s Spanish and his English, paper work was completed and casual conversation commenced. We asked about fuel and he said they could deliver to the boat. Within one hour we were putting 80 plus liters of diesel in. He promised water delivery the next day. While the “boys” were filling the diesel in the boat, Renaldo showed me pictures of his new baby that was born on Valentine ’s Day. Her name was “Valentin”! I showed him a picture of my 37 yr old “baby” Matt.

In the evening, we at on shore at a very nice place called “Aquarena”. A bit of a sushi place but Scott had pasta as he had not eaten sushi before. He did try Bob’s tempura and Ken’s grilled fish. We will convert him to a fish eater yet!

Flag half-mast for Hugo

Monday, March 11^th, Ken worked most of the day. Bob and I did some hunting through the many small markets to do some replenishment. It took 3 markets to gind eggs, water, sausage and bread. Because of the death of Chavez, no alcohol was served or sold.

In the afternoon, Bob and Scott walked up to the ruins and the large cross on the top of the tall hill behind the town. Renaldo showed up at the boat with 10 gal’s of water for our tanks. We had planned to stay for a few days so Ken and Bob and I found Hotel Macanao Lodge on the beach and decided to check-in for one night. Scott would stay on the boat, but would eat with us and use the hotel showers. We had dinner at a restaurant facing the anchorage that’s name translated to “tail of the whale”. It had a fixed menu and reservations were supposed to be required by their lodge guests. We did not have reservations, but the early hour we showed up, they decided to let us in. This restaurant served us wine and beer, but did not bring the bottles or cans to the table.

Tuesday morning, after a very windy night, Scott arrived at our hotel for breakfast. Ken finished up some work taking advantage of the internet at the hotel, and I made some last minute runs to the markets. We decided to head to another Los Roques Island to do some snorkeling. When we all arrived back at the boat we noticed damage on the anchor roller from the chain. A bolt was missing and the anchor roller end was truly bent. (wind damage) . another trip to town to look for a replacement bolt turned up empty. The guys decided to ask a anchored fishing boat if they would have a bolt like it. They returned successful and after Scott dived to retrieve a dropped dinghy lock, we pulled anchor around 12:30.

Motored 2 hours to Canernero. We found a perfect anchorage with only 2 other boats. We saw small fishing huts at the Western edge of the Island, but did not see any activity. This was my favorite anchorage. It was calm, beautiful, and easy swimming and snorkeling. I made cheese and bacon quesadillas for a late lunch and it ended up being our dinner. We all seemed overly tired and went to bed early.

Isla Carenero is a small mangrove island at the western anchorages of Los Roques. The book said there were 6 moorings, we saw maybe one, but dropped anchor instead. We spend Wednesday finding excellent snorkeling and before we packed up to leave, I did some clamming in about 5 ft of water. I will try steaming them later….!

We left for Cayo de Aqua about a 2 hour motor straight down wind. Island with a few palms and sand dunes. Along the way I decided to put out my fishing line and sure enough, caught a mackerel and one tuna by the time we turned into the Cayo de Aqua anchorage. Should have tried fishing long ago! Mackerel for dinner! Clams were so-so, but had to try. We will eat the Tuna for Thursdays meal.

On Thursday, we headed to Aves de Barlevento, about 30km’s from the Western Islands of los Roques. It was very windy and the wind generator is doing great. We sailed single Reef and furled head sail. The sailing was beautiful but the following seas kept us fighting for our personal balance the entire time.

We arrived at the first Aves and just like the Doyle book said, we would weave our way through coral heads to a very nice anchorage at Isla Sur Sut near the Red footed Boobies, and mangroves.

Friday, March 15^th, after French toast, we did some work on the head sail furler, then motored around the coral heads to another noted snorkel spot. It was very windy and wavy and basically dangerous for the snorkeling so we headed to Saki Saki, one of the Northern anchorages of Aves de Sotavento. This was the most beautiful, blue water anchorage we have seen. One for the books for sure. Saki Saki will be our last Aves to experience and we spent the day swimming, snorkeling and running out of gas for the dinghy! It is always something! Scott surprised us by offering to make dinner, Spaghetti! Nice for me.

Baby Boobie at one of the Aves islands

Perfectly blue water

Ken, Kristine, Scott, Bob – Margarita to Bonair Crew

Margarita with Vicki

March 1, 2013/0 Comments/in Blog post/by Kristine

Saturday, we arrived to Margarita, one of Venezuela’s biggest offshore islands. According to Doyle books, its major attraction is its duty free shopping by the mainlanders. Venezuelans are limited to how much they buy, but not how many times they visit to shop. We considered their one marina, but without many other sailboats there, we decided to go to the Porlamar anchorages around from Pampatar. Doyle says to anchor just off of the Concord Hotel. There was a nice beach (small and loaded with tourists), and several beach bar/restaurants. All in all, Porlamar is considered very modern, but we found it quite depressed and dirty.

Vicki, Ken and Scott set out with the dinghy to do recon and I remained on the boat and cleaned up. It was a beautiful day so I put up the sun shade and cleaned up the lines on deck. I am hoping they find Ice and wifi on their journey to town. Being Saturday, check-in with customs and immigration could be an issue. The process is involved and difficult and it is recommended you find a “local” to help with it.

Another boater in the anchorage encouraged us to find Pedro, his “go-to” guy. Turns out Pedro met Ken at customs office and agreed to help with the banking process, diesel, black market exchanges of USD to Bolivar, etc. (Black market money exchange is widely done and accepted)

Second trip back to the boat, the “shoppers” returned with 2 bags of ice, pepsi (they have an issue with coke here) and Bolivar. They did quite a bit of walking around and found Bellvista hotel with wifi, (we could actually see signal from the boat so we used our Rogue wifi to connect), the supermarket, and a place for dinner.

We had dinner at the Ugly Tuna a short walk from the beach. They were out of most things on the menu and we think we drank their last 6 shorties. Replenishment for these establishments come on a weekly basis and I don’t think they always get what they need.

Pedro and ken started their check in process and with his help; we got a few liters of diesel. It is not widely available so this was wonderful. He exchanged several hundred dollars to Bolivar for us so we had some shopping power.

On Sunday, we scheduled a tour with Pedro to the Mangroves at Bahia mangle. It was a nice afternoon, b but by now we had seen enough of Mangroves to last a while.

It was clever how they “decorated” the route through the mangroves, naming several passages. We schedule Pedro pickup to allow us time for a beer and a quick walk on the beach and then we headed back to the boat.

Sunday evening Bob Rose, new crew is set to arrive. We had general time for arrival, and had given him the name of the beach. We had Scott stay on shore for several hours and finally he gave up and came out back to the boat. We decided to go to bed and hope that Bob would find a way to contact us when he arrived. Around 3AM, Bob’s wife called us to say that Bob contacted her via his Sat phone (he did not bring another phone) and told her he was on the beach with the security guard and stray dogs! Ken took the dinghy in and picked him up, we did a quick chat and “hello” and all went back to bed when they got back to the boat.

Monday, we formally greeted Bob after waking up. He and Scott walked to the Howard Johnsons looking for internet and came back saying they had booked a room. We would use this room for laundry and showers and have dinner at their restaurant. Ken continued with the check-in process. It seemed Ken was always promised that another person that had the authority to stamp, receive forms, take money would be at the office “later”. Vicki and I did a quick trip to the Super Market before Vicki had to leave by noon to get to the airport allowing plenty of time for any unknowns. We are sending her home with excess boat stuff, this year the gangplank which is aluminum and bound to be an issue through customs.

Tuesday, we were promised that we could finish check-in/check-out by 4PM so we planned to pull anchor by 10PM for Tortuga. I made some fried rice for the night sail, and prepared the boat to leave, taking down our sun tarps, and putting up the jack-lines for the overnight sail. After a last trip to customs, Ken returned to say we were all stamped, cleared and Ok’d for departure. He also brought the news that Hugo Chavez had died! Guess it is a good time to leave!