St. Barts to St. Maarten, Wendell & Shelly, March 12th-15th

Arriving in Gustavia, St. Barts around 5:45, we were told by the harbor master that it was too late to get into the harbor because everyone had gone home, so we motored up around the north point to Grand Colombier, a marine park, and took a mooring ball there.   It was a very rocky night, but we were tied securely to the mooring and it would only be for one night.   The next morning, I saw several sea turtles in the mooring area  and was told they were numerous and not an uncommon sight.

Tuesday, early we called again to the Gustavia Harbor and the Harbor Master met us in his skiff to direct us to a spot on the Quay.  The marina area was near empty and it seems a shame we were not allowed to come in the night before.   We had to use our anchor and did a stern to tie-up.   We have discovered that the swell action in St. Barts is normal and getting the anchor out far enough to
keep us off the quay was a trick!

Gustavia is a cute little French-style  harbor and seems to be the upcoming spot for the well-to-do and “in” crowd (according to Doyle book and our observations) .  French is the language, however English is well understood.  We found cute shops, some screamed MONEY,  an extremely nice Chandelery (le Ship), and a wide-assortment of restaurants to suit us.

Sorry, no pictures of St. Barts this trip….we must have been distracted by our desire to get to St. Maarten

Mary’s Boon Beach House

Wednesday,  March 14th, we made our way to Simpson Bay, St. Maarten to ensure Wendell and Shelly would make their Thursday departure.   We ended up straight into the wind and motored all the way.  Took about 3 hours total and when we arrived we dropped anchor just  in front of Mary’s Boon Beach house in about 13 feet of water.    We of course, had to go to shore to start the process of “bonding” with the staff of Mary’s Boon where three weeks later we would have our Annual Boat party.


Getting to shore with 4 people in our little dinghy is a constant learning curve and after a super afternoon and evening of eating, drinking and enjoying the beach, we started our migration back to the boat.   Shelly and I had Wendell take us back to the boat and that proved to be without incident.   When later, it was time for Wendell andKen to come back to the boat seems the “wet” comedy began!   While I watched from the  boat, I saw their several attempts to get past the surf without flooding the dinghy.  One time I saw them wrestle the boat as it stood on end.  When they finally got to the boat, soaking wet, they explained that the dinghy tired to commit dinghy suicide!  Not their fault!, but at daylight inspection, one oar was broken in half, the inflatable keel was in backwards, (how could that happen? )  there was at least 3 pounds of sand in the dinghy, one slat for under the inflatable floor was missing and there was so much water in the dinghy, I was surprised it was still above water.

Of course, this also meant, (due to sea water), another NEW PHONE FOR KEN!   Too bad I didn’t  think of getting my camera out.  It was a comedy for sure.   (this is also why I do most of the dinghy
driving….!)

Thursday morning, we called Simpson Bay Marina to tell them we would be making the 9:30 Bridge and about 9:15 Ronny, one of the marina staff was out in their zodiac’s greeting us and telling us to follow him  to the marina after making the bridge.   It is a great marina and they are very helpful with your docking and departing process.   They use their boats as bumper cars to turn you quickly in tight spaces.    By 1:30, the boat was tied up, cleaned up and Wendell and Shelly were packed and waiting for their cab to the airport.   We had a wonderful time and some of the best weather and sailing of the season with them.   We owed them that after their  COLD, WET experience in the French canals when they visited us in 2010.  Our only guests during the canals and they got the most miserable weather of the entire trip.

Friday, March 16th.  Started our boat recovery, Island bonding, getting to know the lagoon with our dinghy, finding Budget Marine and Island Water World shops, the sail loft, and of course the Business Center with the incredible wifi for ken.  This marina is so well situated;  you really don’t need car or bus.  Everything is within walking distance or a short dinghy ride.  Plus, the marina does your laundry (for a fee)

Ken left for the States Sunday the 18th and I would be on the boat for 9 days working on cleaning and polishing the chrome,  and the beginning of prep for off-season.  We would also have the St. Barts regatta crew living on the boat followed by our party so a bit of domestic preparation kept me busy.  I also made several trips to Mary’s boon taking the dinghy to Barnacles (lagoon side) and then walking across to the beach side to Mary’s continuing the bonding process.   On early discovery, I found that Lisa, at the bar, makes a mean Rum punch and the kitchen makes the best coconut shrimp.   Can’t wait for the party!

Barbuda-some say “Heaven on Earth”

Our Wing-on-wing day.

 

 

Barbuda is an island of 62 square miles, population, 1500, 7 mile interior lagoon and I think 2 miles at the widest. Our sail took about 6 hours but was rewarded with a beautiful anchor along 11 mile beach running parallel   to Codrington Lagoon.  Tonight was almost the full moon and we enjoyed another meal in the cockpit.  We had only 8 boat neighbors in the bay, but in 11 miles it felt as if we were alone.  We made contact with George Jeffery, a local tour guide and fisherman who had been listed in our Doyle book.  Tomorrow we would have a small tour of the island and a boat tour to the bird sanctuary.

Sunday we met George Jeffery on the beach, and after a 2 minute walk across the land to the lagoon, we took his fast boat over to the city dock where we paid for our passage into the bird sanctuary.  Our taxi driver arranged by George took us on a short tour of the East Coast of the island to sea caves, adding a bit of hurricane history and on our way back to the dock we asked if he would stop so
we could buy beer and ice for the boat.

The Eastern side of the island is the Highlands, filled with caves


He agreed and our stops included 2 private residences where one had a freezer in their back yard bigger than our boat filled with ice bags.   The beer was purchased at another home where we placed our needs and a man would disappear into the house and return with a plastic bag with our cans of beer and coke.  Price negotiated and beer on ice in George Jeffery’s personal cooler bag.

Next part of our tour was the boat tour of the Bird Sanctuary.   Truly an amazing and interesting sight with the Frigate bird in their mangrove bushes.   Frigate birds are called masters of the air.  They have the greatest wing span in proportion to their weight of any bird.  Because of this they are very awkward and cannot take off if they become submerged.  For this reason they avoid landing in the water and scoop their food from the surface of the sea.   They come back to the same trees and have specific boundaries where they nest.   The male during mating season puff up huge red pouches under their throats.

These are actually jellyfish, laying upside down in the shallows near the Bird Sanctuary.

Ending our day, George Jeffery helped us buy 2 lobsters from local fisherman just returning with a full lobster trap.   To keep the mess to a minimum, we decided to just cook the tails (Wendell did the de-tail work).    After a quiet afternoon, we had our lobster  dinner with some mushroom risotto and salad.  Perfect.

George Jeffery at the Lagoon dock.  Thank you for a great day and the use of your cooler!

Wendell had to hand carry the lobster across to the Sea side

 

Wendell, doing the “deed”!  Messy!

Monday, we set the dinghy on deck for our 8 hour trip to St. Barts.  It was a beautiful sailing day, complete with full main and AP Spinnaker.  Not bad for only 4 crew!   Shelly made us her  chicken quesadillas  for lunch .  This was one thing I learned from Shelly when I sailed with she and Wendell, however, I don’t think I ever get them as good as she makes them!  YUM!

The Boon Channel – Northern Antigua

Friday morning we had banana pancakes in the cockpit and then took off for Boon Channel and over to one of the reef-protected islands.  Coming up to Long Island we started to lose our power and black smoke started coming out of the exhaust.   We quickly found a spot to drop anchor and killed the motor.   Problem was a almost clogged fuel filter.  Fuel in other countries is not always filtered and can create gunk and all sorts of issues.  We did not have a backup filter at the time so we just cleaned it as best as we could.  This seemed to be the solution and for now we were back in business.  However cautious.We found our permanent anchorage further in around Lobster Island and set off to do some snorkeling around Great Bird Island where nesting birds  filled the Leeward side of the small island.   It is a bit of a tourist attraction and now it is forbidden to go on the island or to get too close with your dinghy

Saturday we woke to overcast skies and daylight savings time.   After motoring through the one narrow, winding channel out to the open sea, we sailed wing-on-wing using the whisper pole almost all the way to Barbuda, our next stop.

Bird Island Channel – They say is best left to people with local knowledge….well, that did not stop us!