Tunisia-Sidi Daoud

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Tuesday, July 19th, we sailed half of the day and motored half to get around the Cap Bon to Sidi Daoud. Sidi Daoud is home to a very small fishing harbor where they had a Tuna cannery. The small fishing harbor that also is home to the Sidi Daoud Cannery is stinky and full of flies, but was filled with unknown treasures we were yet to discover.


Giving our passport information to Authorities

We were greeted by the Harbor Master and also met the National Guard and Customs officials. The port authorities went through a very complete check of our passports, the boats paperwork, all our electronics aboard, and various other information they thought they should ask. One of the officials brought his young son who sat quietly on his lap as we were asked to fill out many forms complete with carbon paper for their duplicates. After they left, we seemed to have one or more civilian looking “guards” standing on the Quay 10 feet from our boat. We think they were watching to see if we were going to do any drinking, or maybe they were just plain curious. We kept any “beverages” in cups and produced no cans for them to see in any event.


The Icehouse


Fred and Ken getting our bag of ice


some of the many fishing nets


Checking the weather at the Harbor master’s office


Sidi Daoud Cannery in the background

That evening after we secured ice from the main Ice building on the quay, Ken and Fred proceeded to find our their new best friend, Omar. Omar decided that he would offer us something special for a good price, and when his friend produced 2 very large lobsters, we could not refuse! Despite the miserable location at the dock with the flies and smells and the curious, we had a outstanding dinner of all the lobster you could eat, fresh bread and loads of butter. The Tunisians there just stood and watched us as we ate by candle light. After dinner, Ken and Fred walked around the small harbor and apparently were invited by the local fisherman to eat some couscous. It seemed to be quite a honor to be asked so they did not refuse. Ken says that their couscous takes several days to prepare and is highly anticipated.


Discussing price for the two lobsters


One cooked, ready to feast!




Washing the butter off!


Refueling, one can at a time

Wednesday was promising high winds so collectively we made the decision to delay departure for another day and Omar called a taxi to take us to the Roman Caves north of Sidi Daoud. It was a beautiful coast, but the caves were closed because they had been deemed to dangerous (not entirely sure why they still promote them as a tourist site except to get you there to eat at the restaurant). We did eat lunch there and met a very nice couple from Tunis who were on holiday for the week. Jaz (the gentleman) told us that he taught English and was very happy to talk to us in order to keep the English he knew as genuine as possible. He later offered to be our tour-quide if we came to Tunis or Carthage that week Thursday or Friday. We took his number and promised to give him a call if we did so.


Coastline at The Roman Caves


Molly


We still love to look at the Sea!


Kristine & Ken


Lunch options! Fish of course

Malta to Pantelleria Island

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Evening view of Vittoriosa and Grand Harbor Marina


Maybe trouble-makers?…


Our Malta to Valencia crew


Coast line going North on the East side of Malta….what is wrong with this picture?…

Sunday morning, July 17th, we left Malta around 10:30 and motored North toward the Island Gozo and the Blue Lagoon on the North side of Comino Island, which turned out to be a big tourist boating stop.





Blue lagoon bay, a noted snorkeling spot

We decided to continue on and found a lovely other bay where we dropped anchor to let Molly and Fred do some snorkeling.

We stopped later at Mgarr on Gozo Island so we could go through Customs to leave Malta and then sailed most of the night to the Pantelleria Islands. While in Mgarr, we found the fuel dock closed, the restaurants closed and the dock where we tied up wanting us to move while we waited for Fred and Paula’s passports to pass inspection. (apparently, they never got a stamp in Italy on their arrival. Fred had a new passport so without any stamps, this seemed suspicious to the Customs officials. Finally they approved our exit and stamped our passports and we were out of there!


Porto Vecchio in Porto De Pantelleria, Sicily

Notice the rocks in this old harbor!

Monday, July 18th, we arrived at Pantelleria Island, Italy and anchor docked in the old marina where we met Vito. He was gruff looking Italian wearing no shirt and riding around on his “sting-ray” bike. From shore when we were debating on where to tie-up, he would yell to us and wave his arms. This we did not quite understand, but Ken decided to ignore him and we tied up on the quay. When he approached us, it seemed we did as he had asked us (although we did not understand) and soon he softened up.

I asked where we could find ice and Vito kindly escorted me to a nice hotel off the quay where he instructed them to give me ice. Then carrying it back to the boat for me, he seemed to want to help with anything we needed. He was planning on turning off the water around 3pm so he could go home, but left it on a bit later so we could do dock washing and dock showers. We gave him a tip of 10 Euro’s in exchange for our berth, and a Grateful Red cup and we were forever his American friends!.


Water is on until 5pm so showers first!


Then refueling, one jerrycan at a time…


Then Vito leading Kristine to ICE!


The berth was free so I gave Vito a 10Euro tip along with a cup from the Grateful Red. He seemed quite pleased.


Our neighbor boat tipped Vito by drawing in charcoal a picture of him.

Monday evening we ate dinner at a small contemporary Italian restaurant I think was called Donna Fregate. Again, a small unique restaurant with a set menu of the Chef’s choosing. We ate inside as the outside was hot and tables were filled. The inside of the restaurant seated about 20 and was very pleasant. Heading back to the boat after a evening walkabout, we prepared for our morning departure for Tunisia.

New Crew in Malta, Fred-Paula-Molly

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July 12, 2011 (Tuesday)
Ken and I had Tuesday to ourselves after Vicki and Steve left and decided make it a “date” night and find a nice restaurant. The small peninsula of Grand Harbor Marina in Valletta, Malta has 2 “nice” restaurants. We selected Tal Petut and made reservations for 8PM. It is a small family-style restaurant that seats maybe 20 people and everyone eats the same menu of the day. It was quite nice, but a bit pricey. (sometimes you think you are better staying with more local food options.
Molly arrived on Wednesday night with little travel hassle, and Thursday, Fred and Paula arrived to complete our next crew.


Grand Harbor Marina with one Black Mast!


Hitchin’ a ride across the harbor


5 Euro water taxi ride took us directly to our boat.


Beautifully painted traditional rowing boat of Malta


View of Valletta from Mdina, the highest point on Malta


Fred checking out “old meeting new” construction in Mdina. Mdina is a tiny walled hilltop city in the heart of malta, famous for it’s narrow, snaking alleyways, it’s gold-stoned palazzi and Baroque cathedral. We took a taxi one night up there for dinner and to see the view from the highest point in Malta.

Friday, Molly and I took shuttle service to Pavi Supermarket in Malta with the help of our new local “go-to” guy Leno. Leno owns and operates the neighborhood marina bar “Old City Pub”. He also runs a Chanderly nearby and was instrumental in many of our boat repairs.


Leno, Ken and Fred in Old City Pub

We met Leno the first night we arrived in Malta looking for ice. When we told him our refrig was broken, he gave us a number of a technician to call the next day. When we awoke, there was a man knocking on our boat stating “Leno had sent him”…Carmelo worked for several days on our refrig and we thought we had the problems all solved, but that will be another “story” as we continue to need ice… Leno helped us with boat repairs, ice, Rum, taxi’s when we needed to go somewhere, and provided a fun place for us to go to be with local residents. When we left Malta, we had new friends in Leno and his connections. We gave him a Grateful Red tee-shirt as a Thank you for all his help. He was a wonderful guy and seemed very happy to help us.


The “lit-up” Cathedral across from our pontoon. Thankfully, it was only lit one night of our stay there.